Tag Archives: bowtie6

2012 Euro Auto Festival – bowtie6 will be there!!!

Howdy folks!

Good news tonight…  Finally!!!

  • Performance issues are now a thing of the past.  I’ve had this blog moved to a load balanced hosting plan and we should be noticing some much improved load times.
  • If you have any issues please let me know:  info@bowtie6.com – and I’ll see what I can do to fix it.

The next thing I wanted to let you all know is that bowtie6 will be at the prestigious 2012 Euro Auto Festival at BMW’s Greer, South Carolina assembly plant this weekend.  You can read more about the festival by clicking here. The last time I registered to show my car was there was in 2009.  Incidentally, bowtie6 won First Prize in the TR6 class that year.  :)

If you have never attended the Euro Auto Festival, you need to make a point to be there.  There are many, many cool cars in attendance and the venue is amazing.  The BMW Zentrum is there and you will see a huge collection of amazing cars.  Among them, my friend Michael’s highly tricked out Volvo.

Michael has turned his Volvo into a real powerhouse and basically created a wolf in sheep’s clothing.  It has a highly tweaked Ford Mustang engine in it (oh dear, I said the “F” word!!) and many, many cool enhancements.  I promise I’ll have a full article (or two) here soon with more details about Michael’s ride.

This year’s “marque” is MercedesBenz.  According to the AccuWeather this weekend should be sunny and very nice.  So I plan to have the digital Canon with me and I’ll try to take as many pictures as I can. Stay tuned and I’ll try to put together a nice gallery of shots.

If you happen to be there please come by the Triumph section and say hello.   bowtie6 is downstairs in the garage right now, all gussied up and ready to go.  I have actually taken the hard top off and installed my soft top back on.  This top was custom made in the UK for me several years ago and it is a little “different” from the standard soft tops:  it lacks the side windows.  Click on the “About” menu option to see what it looks like.  At any rate, I hope to see you there!

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How Much Does a TR6 Weigh?

I’ll ask again, how much does a TR6 weigh?

This has been a question in my mind ever since we fitted the new frame and engine to bowtie6.  Well today I finally was able to find out.  The result was a great surprise.

Along with a full tank of fuel and the hard top in place we took our first set of numbers.  The following pictures show front and rear total weights.

Here is the total:

Not too bad – 2,222 lbs and a 48.2% front / 51.7% rear bias.

We were curious about the weight of the factory hard top.  Well I can conclusively state the Triumph factory hard top weighs in at about 65 lbs.  Granted mine has had a few changes done.  I have added a layer of Dynamat Extreme inside however, I removed all the chrome trim.  So at the end of the day, I guess this would be about equal.

Here is the total without the hard top in place:

With the hard top removed, total weight is 2,158 lbs and a 49.3% front / 50.6% rear.

Next thing I need to do is put bowtie6 on a dyno and measure just how much horsepower we are putting down on the pavement.  In stock form, the 2.4 Ecotec in a Solstice/Sky produces 177 hp.  That is using the restrictive factory exhaust and the factory tune which is optimized for economy.  In bowtie6‘s case, we have tuned the PCM to produce power at the expense of economy (duh!), so we are far above from the stock value.  How much?  That we need to find out.

Regardless, this is all quite impressive.  It would have been nice to be closer to 2000lbs but  2,158 is not shabby at all.  I guess I should not have used all that Dynamat!  :)

Oh and I found a prior post I had made regarding how much my cousin Jim’s TR4 weighs – to read that post CLICK HERE.

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Coilovers!!!

I’ve spent some time lately tweaking the coilovers in bowtie6.  Part of the fun of doing a conversion like this is debugging issues and improving the original design.  This is not because we didn’t do our homework.  Instead, once you get things running certain assumptions turn out different once exposed to the “real world” experience.  The coilovers are no exception.

Ever since I started talking about coilovers on bowtie6 both here in the blog and at car shows, I’ve been asked what coil rates I have used.  Folks ask me this expecting a straight answer but unfortunately there is no such thing!  This is a trial and error process that is highly dependent on factors such as suspension travel,  weight distribution and mounting angles of the coilovers – among others.

So when we put things on paper we factored fore and aft weight distribution and a general notion of the coilover mounting angles.  The best placement for a coilover is to mount them straight up.  At this angle the coil rating is 100%; the more tilted the less efficient the coil works.  However, it is very hard to get the coils straight up especially when you have “A” arms or the body in the way.  So this becomes a bit of a compromise.

As the suspension settled, I started noticing the front tyres scrubbing on the inside of the front fenders when doing some heavy cornering or when the car settled on a bump under heavy compression.  Not good.  So what to do?  There are several options…

Stiffer Springs

Coils come in a variety of ratings, such as 400lb coils for example.  What this means is that it takes 400lbs to compress the coil an inch.  This illustrates what I mentioned above about mounting efficiency.  The 400lb rating is with the coilover mounted straight up.  With the coilover mounted at a 20 degree angle, you would need a 454lb coil to give you the 400lb rating.

So just run stiffer springs, right?  Well, not really.  One can make the suspension too stiff and when that happens the suspension does not react quick enough to undulations in the road surface.  This can yield to poor handling.

Larger Swaybar

A larger swaybar can be used too.  However one has to be careful with this because with a stiffer swaybar the care will also react in unexpected ways under hard cornering such as oversteer or understeer depending whether a rear sway bar is used.  Careful matching is critical here.

Raising the Body

Another idea is to unbolt the body from the frame, make shims and bolt things back up.  Easy on paper but hard to carry out.  This could take a bit of time to figure out  Furthermore, a disadvantage to this approach is that the center of gravity will be affected and once again handling takes a hit.

Now What?

I am not an expert in this by a long sight, but after talking this over with several folks that know much more about this than I do, we decided on a stiffer set of coils (but not too stiff!).  I placed an order and a few days later (thanks to UPS) the stiffer coils arrived.  After opening the box and making a few measurements things got really interesting…

Turns out the coilover vendor from whom I bought the coilovers a year before, made a huge mistake.  For some reason they screwed up and sent me different length coilovers.  The rears are longer by 0.6 inches.  When my cousin Jim fabricated the frame and designed the mounting points, the calculations were based on the longer of the two pairs.  Thinking they were both the same all looked great on paper.  However, in reality the front ended up short by that 0.6 inch.

At any rate, we ended up upgrading the front coils with the new stiffer ones.  What a difference.  The tire scrub has been solved while retaining good handling.  Another “bug” solved.  Moral of the story?  just because a vender ships something you have ordered and it seems to be “correct” do yourself a favor:  measure and make sure all is correct and up to spec.  Especially on parts that might be not used for quite some time.

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Ecotec ECM Tuning – Changes So Far

I mentioned in the last post I’d go into more details about HPTuners.  This time I want to talk about the Ecotec ECM tuning changes done so far.  I’m far from being an expert however one needs to start somewhere…

Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS)

The first and most important task is disabling VATS.  This is a prerequisite when doing an engine swap such as what we did here.  Failing to disable VATS renders the engine inoperable.  On earlier ECM’s GM devised a system by which the ignition key had a special resistor that would match a receiver in the ignition key tumbler.  This “match” would enable the ECM to fire the engine.  With those early ECM’s it was possible to wire an inline module and basically fake out the key resistor.  With modern ECM’s such as the one controlling the Ecotec, the VATS became more advanced.  With the aid of HPTuners though, this is a simple change in the flash file burned into the ECM.

Mass Airflow Recalibration

In bowtie6, we replaced the stock plastic intake with a smaller, more direct intake manifold.  The reason was not for performance but because the stock intake was too big and got in the way of the steering shaft.  The air filter housing was also replaced with a cone-shaped K&N air filter.  There is simply no room under the hood of the TR6 for the large box that holds the stock air filter.  These changes forced relocation of the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor.  As expected, the stock settings for the MAF did not match the new configuration.  This manifested itself in a rather rough idle and poor performance.

Tuning the MAF took some doing.  I won’t go into all the details but suffice to say it took a few hours worth of driving down the road and logging data with the VCM Scanner.  Using the VCM Editor I was able to dial in the low and high MAF tables to more desirable values.  This resulted in smoother idle and better performance.

Seeking Professional Advice

This is where the tuning process gets a bit pricey.  After going through several  books and reading many long hours’ worth of posts I decided to find a local expert.  Sure enough I found a person with a great knowledge and familiarity with HPTuners and tuning GM engines. However this came at a price.  The results though, made a huge difference.

As expected, fuel efficiency is the ahead of pure performance in the  stock ECM.  This shows up the way the commanded air fuel ratios are pre-set across the RPM range, spark tables and the way that power enrichment activates proportional to throttle angle – among other things.  After quite a few alterations the ECM is delivering more performance at the expense of fuel efficiency.  The results are astounding:  throttle response is much more livelier resulting in more power being delivered and overall the engine is much smoother across the entire rev range.  It is now very easy to make the Ecotec reach its 7000 RPM redline.

What next?

The next step will be to take bowtie6 to a dyno.  Been there, done that before but this time we will be tweaking the ECM  This will allow even more accurate dialing in for extracting that last bit of power.  Also, something that is yet to be modified are the VVT tables.  The 2.4 Ecotec has variable valve timing and this first tuning did not touch VVT.  Who knows what we can do with this?

Another avenue left for exploration is E85 Ethanol.  I’ve been intrigued for a long time about this source of fuel.  FlexFuel vehicles have a special metering device that allows the ECM to calibrate itself on the fly.  I don’t have that metering device but I have HPTuners and this will allow a special E85 calibration flashed into the ECM.  Where I live E85 is very easy to find – there is a very large fuel station just down the street from my house – so this will be a fun experiment.  Granted, flashing the ECM to run E85 without a metering device means E85 has to be burned exclusively.  However, changing back to straight fuel is easy to do, simply by reflashing the ECM.

In Summary

I realize to each his own and this is not for everybody.  However, having all this technology at your fingertips (literally) is remarkable.  Why would anyone want to waste time on those relics of fuel metering called carburetors is beyond me.

Stay tuned…  Soon bowtie6 will be the first E85 Ethanol powered TR6…  :)

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Ecotec ECM Tuning – Intro

Gone are the days of “burning a chip” for engine computers.  Modern Engine Control Modules (ECM’s) can now be monitored real-time and then modified based on readings done after driving down the road.  Pretty cool stuff indeed but it adds a whole new dimension to engine performance adjustments.

The factory install of the Ecotec in a Pontiac Solstice at its core consists of the engine, wiring harness, ECM and the Body Control Module (BCM).  The ECM reads and controls engine signals while the BCM controls such things as gauges, door locks, lights, etc.  In addition, the BCM supplies data used in the information center on the instrument panel showing fuel consumption, engine temp, outside temp, etc.  Furthermore, the ECM and BCM talk to each other via a digital high-speed bus integrated into the factory wiring harness.

So, one of the challenges in getting the Ecotec to run in bowtie6 was making all this work outside of the factory install.  After doing a ton of research and reading the Factory Service Manuals, we were able to figure out what wires actually control engine sensors and what goes to the BCM.  This enabled us to change the factory harness to fit our needs.  Since we did not run the factory instrument panel and did not need to control lights and such, we did not use the BCM.

A disadvantage of this approach is the lack of cruise control.  In the Ecotec the throttle body is electronically activated – there is no cable in the traditional sense.  Instead, the electronic “gas pedal” inside the car sends a signal to the ECM via a small wiring harness.  This gets accomplished by coarse and fine potentiometer readings of the throttle pedal position (Click here for my Drive by Wire article).  There is also no Idle Air Control (IAC); instead idle is now controlled by the ECM cracking the butterfly angle as needed.  This is very amazing stuff.  As a side note, it is interesting to pay close attention when turning the ignition to the “on” position:  there is a very short “click” heard from under the hood.  It is the throttle body going through its pre-check.  But I digress… Bottom line:  my goal is to be able to integrate the BCM into bowtie6‘s wiring and by doing so, have a fully operational fly-by-wire cruise control.

Among the wires going to and from the ECM is a group that end up in a special plug called an ALDL connector.  This special connector is normally found in production GM cars under the dash on the driver’s side.  It is by the ALDL that the GM TECII scanner/programmer gets connected to the car’s ECM.  In my case I use my laptop along with an interface made by HPTuners to read and change the ECM’s settings.

Enter HPTuners

HPTuners is a commercially available ECM tuning package.  It consists of a Windows-based software running on a laptop and an interface with a USB connector on one side and a matching ALDL connector on the other.  This software package is quite remarkable in what it does; equally remarkable is the lack of documentation.  Sure it has online help but it is very lacking in detail and content.  In the hands of a newbie it can spell disaster to the engine; in the hands of an expert it makes an already great engine even more remarkable.

HPTuners has two main software components:  the VCM Scanner and VCM Editor.  The Scanner is the means by which the engine’s parameters get monitored real-time.  There are a number of different ways to display data:  charts, a gauge panel and tables.  Scanning is accomplished by connecting the laptop to the ALDL connector via the interface, starting the engine and pressing the “Scan” button on the Scanner.  Then you drive down the road and start logging data – the more, the better.  This data can then be saved to a log file for further analysis.  Another feature of the Scanner is to load a log file and play it back – this is very helpful in determining what to change.

The tool used to re-flash the ECM is the VCM Editor.  The process is quite simple:  read the ECM, make adjustments and re-flash.  The hard part though, is figuring out what to change and in what order.  It has been my experience so far this is a bit of a black science.  Information on the interweb is vast about tuning.  However, discerning truth from fiction is the true challenge.  There are several books on the subject and then there are tuning courses available, however they are pricey.  HPTuners is the tool but what to do with and how to use it, is a very time-consuming task!

In the next installment I’ll go into more details about HPTuners…

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You Never Know…

I’ve been driving bowtie6 quite a bit these days…  A bit cold, but with the new kicker heater it is nice and toasty.  I guess since we are getting around, you never know when you are going to get a mug shot.

My friend and fellow TR6 owner, Adam Beasley sent me a text message yesterday with this photo.  The photo was taken at the parking lot of a local barbeque place (they have really good BBQ there!).  Turns out a friend of his took the photo and sent it to him.  Since he knew Adam owns a TR6, Adam told me he made the comment that he had “…seen this red TR6 and it was in decent shape.”.  Well, yeah!  So moral of the story, one one drives a “classic” car rather than having it in a garage all the time, you might get your picture taken!  :)

As a side note, yesterday I had a chance to visit a car show that is held every year here at the Expo Center.  Mainly, it is a showcase of new cars where one has the chance to check out new cars without the pesky, ignoramus “car salesmen” flying around like underfed vultures.  At any rate, several things I learned last night:

  • They had the full lineup of CTS Cadillacs.  The CTSV’s no less.  They had a new coupe and the sedan both with the kicker supercharged LS engine.  Both were clad in a very awesome metallic black paint.  Very nice indeed.
  • The new Ecotec 1.4 turbo is awesome!!  There were several Cruze examples with the new 1.4 and man is this engine impressive.  Physically, it is smaller than the 2.2 or 2.4 Ecotec and should be a really good candidate for transplants.  The turbo on these is tiny!  It is unknown though, if a five speed gearbox will hook up to the back of the engine.  Then again, maybe if we get a pair of pliers and a blowtorch we could medieval on it…  ;)
  • Had a chance to get an up close and personal view of the new Fiat 500.  They had two of them.  A hard top and a convertible.  Well…  Hate to say it, but what a POS.  I had a chance to sit in one and the ergonomics are all screwed up.  The shifter is in the wrong place and talk about cramped.  These things are expensive and I hate to say it but looks like they are not going to “make it”.  And from what I have been reading, they are not exactly selling lke the proverbial hot-cake.
  • Supercharged Vette was also very impressive.

 

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TR6 Bonnet Rod

After installing countless sheets of Dynamat Extreme all over the place ($$), thick sound proofing carpet backing, new carpet, plugging up the firewall for any small holes, modifying the exhaust and misc other improvements, bowtie6 is very quiet now.  While this is a great thing, it also brings with it the ability to notice other smaller aggravating sources for noise. I started noticing a very annoying squeak from underneath the bonnet (the hood).

This darn squeak would happen on bumpy roads as well as smooth blacktop.  Since it was coming from under the bonnet I started adjusting stuff.  I made sure the two rubber bumpers were up to snuff, made sure the latch was nice and centered and double checked all bolts.  Fender bolts, hinge bolts, grille, the works.  Still – squeak city.  Damn.

While visiting with a buddy of mine that works on TR6′s – Mike Richardson – over the holidays, I discussed the annoying squeak.  We went for a ride, and Mike laughed and said, “It’s the bonnet rod!”.  Duh!

Mike suggested a couple of things.  The first was to tighten the nut holding the rod in place.  Mike reached into his toolbox and pulled out a 7/16″ wrench and tightened the nut just a tad.  Since Mike restores TR6′s back to “original” I figured this might do the trick.  Well after chewing the fat for a while, I headed back home.  Damn squeak was still there.

Remember I said above he suggested two things?  Mike suggested that if after tightening the nut it still squeaked, to take a closer look at the rod and see if there was any evidence of it rubbing on the rod guide on the body.  Sure enough, there was a shiny spot on the rod where it touches the guide.

Properly mounted the rod nut should be a loose fit.  This enables the rod to fall in place into the recess on the rod guide when the bonnet is lifted open.  If the nut is too tight, then gravity cannot let the rod fall in place and one has to manually intervene, which is not good.  Mike said this is out of the “Original Restoration Handbook”.  Hmmm…  I guess I never read that book.  Shame on me.

However, leaving the nut a little on the loose side – according to Mike – the rod has a tendency to bounce and move around.  This is how that shiny spot forms on the rod and thus the source of the squeak.  Hmmm.  I guess the “purists” know a thing or two I don’t know.  Imagine that.

“So, how do I fix this?”, I asked Mike.

Mike looked at me and said: “Get some shrink wrap and cover up any shiny areas.  This will solve your squeaks”.

So when I got back home, I opened my toolbox with all my ‘lectrical stuff in it and found the appropriate size shrink wrap.  I cut an appropriate length, aligned it over the shiny areas and let the hot air gun do the rest.  This is what it looks like:

I put the nut back on, careful not to tighten it too much (in accordance to the “Original Restoration Handbook”) and went for a ride.

Well folks, that did the trick.  No more annoying squeak.  Imagine that.

So if you have an annoying squeak under the hood that is driving you nuts, you might be able to do a similar fix as shown above.  Mind you, it will not score you many points with the judges but I can’t stand squeaks.  Of course, in my case…  who cares what the judges say!

Thanks Mike!!!  :)

 

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