I mentioned in the last post I’d go into more details about HPTuners.  This time I want to talk about the Ecotec ECM tuning changes done so far.  I’m far from being an expert however one needs to start somewhere…

Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS)

The first and most important task is disabling VATS.  This is a prerequisite when doing an engine swap such as what we did here.  Failing to disable VATS renders the engine inoperable.  On earlier ECM’s GM devised a system by which the ignition key had a special resistor that would match a receiver in the ignition key tumbler.  This “match” would enable the ECM to fire the engine.  With those early ECM’s it was possible to wire an inline module and basically fake out the key resistor.  With modern ECM’s such as the one controlling the Ecotec, the VATS became more advanced.  With the aid of HPTuners though, this is a simple change in the flash file burned into the ECM.

Mass Airflow Recalibration

In bowtie6, we replaced the stock plastic intake with a smaller, more direct intake manifold.  The reason was not for performance but because the stock intake was too big and got in the way of the steering shaft.  The air filter housing was also replaced with a cone-shaped K&N air filter.  There is simply no room under the hood of the TR6 for the large box that holds the stock air filter.  These changes forced relocation of the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor.  As expected, the stock settings for the MAF did not match the new configuration.  This manifested itself in a rather rough idle and poor performance.

Tuning the MAF took some doing.  I won’t go into all the details but suffice to say it took a few hours worth of driving down the road and logging data with the VCM Scanner.  Using the VCM Editor I was able to dial in the low and high MAF tables to more desirable values.  This resulted in smoother idle and better performance.

Seeking Professional Advice

This is where the tuning process gets a bit pricey.  After going through several  books and reading many long hours’ worth of posts I decided to find a local expert.  Sure enough I found a person with a great knowledge and familiarity with HPTuners and tuning GM engines. However this came at a price.  The results though, made a huge difference.

As expected, fuel efficiency is the ahead of pure performance in the  stock ECM.  This shows up the way the commanded air fuel ratios are pre-set across the RPM range, spark tables and the way that power enrichment activates proportional to throttle angle – among other things.  After quite a few alterations the ECM is delivering more performance at the expense of fuel efficiency.  The results are astounding:  throttle response is much more livelier resulting in more power being delivered and overall the engine is much smoother across the entire rev range.  It is now very easy to make the Ecotec reach its 7000 RPM redline.

What next?

The next step will be to take bowtie6 to a dyno.  Been there, done that before but this time we will be tweaking the ECM  This will allow even more accurate dialing in for extracting that last bit of power.  Also, something that is yet to be modified are the VVT tables.  The 2.4 Ecotec has variable valve timing and this first tuning did not touch VVT.  Who knows what we can do with this?

Another avenue left for exploration is E85 Ethanol.  I’ve been intrigued for a long time about this source of fuel.  FlexFuel vehicles have a special metering device that allows the ECM to calibrate itself on the fly.  I don’t have that metering device but I have HPTuners and this will allow a special E85 calibration flashed into the ECM.  Where I live E85 is very easy to find – there is a very large fuel station just down the street from my house – so this will be a fun experiment.  Granted, flashing the ECM to run E85 without a metering device means E85 has to be burned exclusively.  However, changing back to straight fuel is easy to do, simply by reflashing the ECM.

In Summary

I realize to each his own and this is not for everybody.  However, having all this technology at your fingertips (literally) is remarkable.  Why would anyone want to waste time on those relics of fuel metering called carburetors is beyond me.

Stay tuned…  Soon bowtie6 will be the first E85 Ethanol powered TR6… 

Gone are the days of “burning a chip” for engine computers.  Modern Engine Control Modules (ECM’s) can now be monitored real-time and then modified based on readings done after driving down the road.  Pretty cool stuff indeed but it adds a whole new dimension to engine performance adjustments.

The factory install of the Ecotec in a Pontiac Solstice at its core consists of the engine, wiring harness, ECM and the Body Control Module (BCM).  The ECM reads and controls engine signals while the BCM controls such things as gauges, door locks, lights, etc.  In addition, the BCM supplies data used in the information center on the instrument panel showing fuel consumption, engine temp, outside temp, etc.  Furthermore, the ECM and BCM talk to each other via a digital high-speed bus integrated into the factory wiring harness.

So, one of the challenges in getting the Ecotec to run in bowtie6 was making all this work outside of the factory install.  After doing a ton of research and reading the Factory Service Manuals, we were able to figure out what wires actually control engine sensors and what goes to the BCM.  This enabled us to change the factory harness to fit our needs.  Since we did not run the factory instrument panel and did not need to control lights and such, we did not use the BCM.

A disadvantage of this approach is the lack of cruise control.  In the Ecotec the throttle body is electronically activated – there is no cable in the traditional sense.  Instead, the electronic “gas pedal” inside the car sends a signal to the ECM via a small wiring harness.  This gets accomplished by coarse and fine potentiometer readings of the throttle pedal position (Click here for my Drive by Wire article).  There is also no Idle Air Control (IAC); instead idle is now controlled by the ECM cracking the butterfly angle as needed.  This is very amazing stuff.  As a side note, it is interesting to pay close attention when turning the ignition to the “on” position:  there is a very short “click” heard from under the hood.  It is the throttle body going through its pre-check.  But I digress… Bottom line:  my goal is to be able to integrate the BCM into bowtie6‘s wiring and by doing so, have a fully operational fly-by-wire cruise control.

Among the wires going to and from the ECM is a group that end up in a special plug called an ALDL connector.  This special connector is normally found in production GM cars under the dash on the driver’s side.  It is by the ALDL that the GM TECII scanner/programmer gets connected to the car’s ECM.  In my case I use my laptop along with an interface made by HPTuners to read and change the ECM’s settings.

Enter HPTuners

HPTuners is a commercially available ECM tuning package.  It consists of a Windows-based software running on a laptop and an interface with a USB connector on one side and a matching ALDL connector on the other.  This software package is quite remarkable in what it does; equally remarkable is the lack of documentation.  Sure it has online help but it is very lacking in detail and content.  In the hands of a newbie it can spell disaster to the engine; in the hands of an expert it makes an already great engine even more remarkable.

HPTuners has two main software components:  the VCM Scanner and VCM Editor.  The Scanner is the means by which the engine’s parameters get monitored real-time.  There are a number of different ways to display data:  charts, a gauge panel and tables.  Scanning is accomplished by connecting the laptop to the ALDL connector via the interface, starting the engine and pressing the “Scan” button on the Scanner.  Then you drive down the road and start logging data – the more, the better.  This data can then be saved to a log file for further analysis.  Another feature of the Scanner is to load a log file and play it back – this is very helpful in determining what to change.

The tool used to re-flash the ECM is the VCM Editor.  The process is quite simple:  read the ECM, make adjustments and re-flash.  The hard part though, is figuring out what to change and in what order.  It has been my experience so far this is a bit of a black science.  Information on the interweb is vast about tuning.  However, discerning truth from fiction is the true challenge.  There are several books on the subject and then there are tuning courses available, however they are pricey.  HPTuners is the tool but what to do with and how to use it, is a very time-consuming task!

In the next installment I’ll go into more details about HPTuners…

Yesterday was the fourth Saturday of January.  Here in Greenville, South Carolina we have our local Cars & Coffee (graciously organized by John Budinich) and it happens to land on the fourth Saturday of the month.  Yesterday was kinda special:  over 100 cars showed up.  This happens at a parking lot of a former grocery store and it is very accessible.  There is a Starbucks Coffee there and that makes for a nice gathering spot.  Want to read more about it?  Click here.

The point is:  if you are a gearhead (and if you are not, bless your heart), then do some research and try to find your local chapter of Cars & Coffee.  You might be amazed what you might find!  If you are anywhere near Greenville, SC come by and join us.  You will have a great time and there are many cool cars to see and many very interesting folks to meet!!!

Here is a picture of bowtie6:

And we are in good company…That is Kip’s red Lotus and John’s yellow Lotus.  bowtie6 is in the background…

I should be getting paid by GM for making this post, but I am not – unfortunately.  However, I just wanted to post this because it made for a cool picture.  I hope you agree…

I was over at my cousin Jim’s shop yesterday and three of his clients showed up.  I took the following picture which I thought was pretty significant.  A whole lot of technology on front of your eyes actually.  Both of these beauties represent the very best from Detroit – back then and now.

And so, you get the idea…  The old, the new… 

Chevy, runs deep! 

I’ve been driving bowtie6 quite a bit these days…  A bit cold, but with the new kicker heater it is nice and toasty.  I guess since we are getting around, you never know when you are going to get a mug shot.

My friend and fellow TR6 owner, Adam Beasley sent me a text message yesterday with this photo.  The photo was taken at the parking lot of a local barbeque place (they have really good BBQ there!).  Turns out a friend of his took the photo and sent it to him.  Since he knew Adam owns a TR6, Adam told me he made the comment that he had “…seen this red TR6 and it was in decent shape.”.  Well, yeah!  So moral of the story, one one drives a “classic” car rather than having it in a garage all the time, you might get your picture taken! 

As a side note, yesterday I had a chance to visit a car show that is held every year here at the Expo Center.  Mainly, it is a showcase of new cars where one has the chance to check out new cars without the pesky, ignoramus “car salesmen” flying around like underfed vultures.  At any rate, several things I learned last night:

• They had the full lineup of CTS Cadillacs.  The CTSV’s no less.  They had a new coupe and the sedan both with the kicker supercharged LS engine.  Both were clad in a very awesome metallic black paint.  Very nice indeed.
• The new Ecotec 1.4 turbo is awesome!!  There were several Cruze examples with the new 1.4 and man is this engine impressive.  Physically, it is smaller than the 2.2 or 2.4 Ecotec and should be a really good candidate for transplants.  The turbo on these is tiny!  It is unknown though, if a five speed gearbox will hook up to the back of the engine.  Then again, maybe if we get a pair of pliers and a blowtorch we could medieval on it… 
• Had a chance to get an up close and personal view of the new Fiat 500.  They had two of them.  A hard top and a convertible.  Well…  Hate to say it, but what a POS.  I had a chance to sit in one and the ergonomics are all screwed up.  The shifter is in the wrong place and talk about cramped.  These things are expensive and I hate to say it but looks like they are not going to “make it”.  And from what I have been reading, they are not exactly selling lke the proverbial hot-cake.
• Supercharged Vette was also very impressive.

Quick post for today…  Just wanted to show what the whole shebang looks like these days…  The ECM box has a nice cover on it.  Looks pretty cool, huh?

Click on each picture for a larger image…

I have a new set of pictures of the 1917 Locomobile.  Mainly they are of the interior of this magnificent machine.  The gallery below has many interesting details about the interior.

• The Volt meter, made by the Westinghouse Company.
• The clock is a Waltham.  Imagine that!
• Check out the speedo.  Max speed is 75 mph.
• All the bits inside the cab are nickel plated.
• Check out the frames of the rear jumpseats…
• The steering wheel is pretty cool, with the “spark” and “fuel” levers.

Enjoy!

After installing countless sheets of Dynamat Extreme all over the place ($$), thick sound proofing carpet backing, new carpet, plugging up the firewall for any small holes, modifying the exhaust and misc other improvements, bowtie6 is very quiet now.  While this is a great thing, it also brings with it the ability to notice other smaller aggravating sources for noise. I started noticing a very annoying squeak from underneath the bonnet (the hood).

This darn squeak would happen on bumpy roads as well as smooth blacktop.  Since it was coming from under the bonnet I started adjusting stuff.  I made sure the two rubber bumpers were up to snuff, made sure the latch was nice and centered and double checked all bolts.  Fender bolts, hinge bolts, grille, the works.  Still – squeak city.  Damn.

While visiting with a buddy of mine that works on TR6′s – Mike Richardson – over the holidays, I discussed the annoying squeak.  We went for a ride, and Mike laughed and said, “It’s the bonnet rod!”.  Duh!

Mike suggested a couple of things.  The first was to tighten the nut holding the rod in place.  Mike reached into his toolbox and pulled out a 7/16″ wrench and tightened the nut just a tad.  Since Mike restores TR6′s back to “original” I figured this might do the trick.  Well after chewing the fat for a while, I headed back home.  Damn squeak was still there.

Remember I said above he suggested two things?  Mike suggested that if after tightening the nut it still squeaked, to take a closer look at the rod and see if there was any evidence of it rubbing on the rod guide on the body.  Sure enough, there was a shiny spot on the rod where it touches the guide.

Properly mounted the rod nut should be a loose fit.  This enables the rod to fall in place into the recess on the rod guide when the bonnet is lifted open.  If the nut is too tight, then gravity cannot let the rod fall in place and one has to manually intervene, which is not good.  Mike said this is out of the “Original Restoration Handbook”.  Hmmm…  I guess I never read that book.  Shame on me.

However, leaving the nut a little on the loose side – according to Mike – the rod has a tendency to bounce and move around.  This is how that shiny spot forms on the rod and thus the source of the squeak.  Hmmm.  I guess the “purists” know a thing or two I don’t know.  Imagine that.

“So, how do I fix this?”, I asked Mike.

Mike looked at me and said: “Get some shrink wrap and cover up any shiny areas.  This will solve your squeaks”.

So when I got back home, I opened my toolbox with all my ‘lectrical stuff in it and found the appropriate size shrink wrap.  I cut an appropriate length, aligned it over the shiny areas and let the hot air gun do the rest.  This is what it looks like:

I put the nut back on, careful not to tighten it too much (in accordance to the “Original Restoration Handbook”) and went for a ride.

Well folks, that did the trick.  No more annoying squeak.  Imagine that.

So if you have an annoying squeak under the hood that is driving you nuts, you might be able to do a similar fix as shown above.  Mind you, it will not score you many points with the judges but I can’t stand squeaks.  Of course, in my case…  who cares what the judges say!

Thanks Mike!!! 

After careful inspection and a thorough cleaning, the intake was repaired by my cousin Jim.  We did find another small crack that had developed on the outside of the plenum – not a leak, but more of a stress crack.  At any rate, with some new weld beads, the runners are all repaired now.  This is what things look like, after the repairs:

Here is a closer look at the affected area:

The face of the flange was found to be ever so slightly not 100% flat.  With a little machining, it is now level and flat.  I started putting this all back together last night.  Should have it all running today…

Looks like 2011 ends in a bang.  Literally.

Yesterday morning the sun was out so I decided to take bowtie6 to work.  Unfortunately, I did not press the “Start” button long enough, the engine turned for just a split second and backfired when I let go of the button.  I’ve had this happen twice before with no serious consequences but this time, we had a problem: the “bang” cracked the intake.

There is nothing wrong with the design of the intake or with anything else.  This was my mistake 100%.  I just call this a risk of running non-factory parts.  The new intake is all aluminium; this is what the intake looks like:

We had to make this intake up because there is no room for the original plastic intake.  Actually there is, but it would have required the steering column to be relocated bigtime and it was just not worth the trouble.  The intake you see above is made in several pieces.  The flange that bolts to the head came from GM Performance Parts and is water jet cut aluminium.  This all has to be made in pieces and welded in place as such.  The four intake runners are aluminium tubing, cut and bent to fit the oval ports on the GMPP flange.  They were welded to the flange from the outside otherwise there would be a lot of machining to make the flange perfectly flat again.

The runners then were fitted to a flat piece of aluminium which made the intake side of the long plenum on the top.  There was a bead ran on the inside of that plate.  Then, the rest of the plenum was shaped and welded in place.  The seams were filed smooth and it all looks like one solid piece.  Finally a flange was made and welded where the throttle body gets bolted with four screws.

All good, except that the four runners ended up with a delicate bead around them, on the inside of the intake plenum.  So, when the backfired occurred it caused the seam on number 4 runner to assplode.  Take a look:

Obviously, it doesn’t take much for the thing to have a major vacuum leak and cause the engine to fail to run.  Needless to say, with this crack RPM’s went through the roof!  One interesting thing about all this is the ECM was smart enough to figure this out, and basically shut things down.

The outside of the runners needs to be welded again (duh!).  Had we not had the backfire, this would have not been a problem.  The seal has been flawless but unfortunately the thing just could not cope with the force of the assplosion.  As you can see, the intake has been removed and will be welded back today.  I hope to be back on the road hopefully tomorrow.

Here is a picture of engine-side of things:

Sorry for the picture being so dark, but you can see there is not much distance between the intake valves and the actual intake itself.  Not at all.  Also, the gasket seems out of place because it is not pushed all the way up against the head – in reality it fits perfectly with the intake opening.

No worries though – this should be a quick fix…