Category Archives: bowtie6

Ecotec Powered Triumph TR6

So How Much Does a TR6 Weigh, Really?

IMG_1450In today’s snail-mail I received the July 2013 issue of Classic Motorsports Magazine and there is an article about the total weight of different classic cars.  Interesting article indeed.  This article made me think about the weight measurements I took on bowtie6.  So how much does a TR6 weigh, really?

The one-page article’s title is “By the Numbers” and shows several cars such as a 1967 Shelby GT350 (3295 lbs), 1971 MGB roadster (2150 lbs), 1965 Sunbeam Tiger (2545 lbs – a real porker) and a 1992 Mazda Miata (2194 lbs). This was listed on the page shown here to the left.

Hmmmm…  According to the article, the results were obtained with a set of Longacre DX scales.  What is the weight of a TR6, you ask?  Take a look:

IMG_1452

Compared to these numbers, bowtie6 did remarkably well.  Here are my results, also taken with a set of Longacre scales:

  • Rear Weight:  1150 lbs    51.7%
  • Front Weight:  1072 lbs    48.2%
  • Total:               2222 lbs    100%

Wait a minute…  These numbers are including a hard top!

Here are the totals without the hard top:

  • Rear Weight:  1094 lbs    50.6%
  • Front Weight:  1064 lbs    49.3%
  • Total:               2148 lbs     100%

Very interesting comparison.  My TR6 is lighter than a stock 1969 TR6 even with a hard top installed!  :mrgreen:   If you want to see more details – CLICK HERE.

I realize my TR6 is not the average run-of-the-mill TR6 but dang this is a big difference.  I suppose the new, lightweight frame and all alloy Ecotec play a very large role in this total.  Add to that the extra horsepower and torque numbers and the result is a pretty awesome TR6.

 

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Triumph TR4/TR6 Wheel & Tire Sizing

A few days ago, I received an email from a reader (thank you Richie) asking to know more about Triumph TR4/TR6 wheel & tire sizing as fitted to our cars.  I thought this might be helpful for others so I decided to take a few pics and show you what we have installed.

My Cousin’s TR4 Wheels and Tires

The email from Richie mentioned he had never seen a TR4 with 16″ Panasport wheels as in the case of my cousin Jim’s TR4.  The wheels are Panasport in the “standard” size for a TR6: which is 16 x 7 inch, zero offset as indicated by the following picture from taken from one of the boxes.

Richie also mentioned in his email that this wheels size would be too wide for a stock TR4 because the wheel would make contact with the leaf spring.  I suppose this is correct, however in our case this is not an issue because the rear suspension on my cousin’s TR4 is using coilovers instead of a leaf spring.  As seen in the following picture the wheel/tire package fits very nicely without the need for any sort of wheel spacers.  On closer look on the picture below, the rear wheel looks a bit “off” but that is just because of the way the surface is below the tire.  There is a dip in the driveway ahead of the concrete pad.

IMG_1380Here is a picture from the back of the car just to show the profile.  It is a little dark – sorry about that, I took this with my cell phone – but you can see the tires don’t stick out too far out from the fender edges.

IMG_1382So now lets talk about tire size.  My cousin decided on a set of Bridgestone Turanza 185-55 R 16 as show below, on all four wheels.  They are a little narrow, but they work well.  If I am not mistaken, these tires came from a local Discount Tire store.

IMG_1383bowtie6‘s (TR6) Wheels and Tires

I have the same wheels as fitted to the TR4 on my TR6.  However, the tire sizes are quite different.  My first attempt was a set of matching Kumho 215-55 16′s.  This worked very well and gave bowtie6 a very aggressive look.  However, the front tires in this size were just too wide and on cornering I heard the edges of the tire digging into the front fenders.  I did not want to push my luck and have further problems so I bought a set of matching Kumho 205-55 16′s for the front.

This is what the 205-55 16′s look like on the front:

IMG_1387Here are the rear 215-55 16′s:

IMG_1386And finally, what this combination looks like showing the profile:

IMG_1384

The Kumho’s have been very good and have lasted about as long as you would expect from a “summer performance” tire.  When new, these tires were very soft and sticky, however after almost 18,000 miles they are now showing quite a bit of wear.  They are also much harder and need replacing.  More than likely I will be ordering a new set of BFGoodrich tires, just like the ones I recently bought for my Honda S2000 and they were sourced from The Tire Rack.  They are also “summer performance” tires and I anticipate good service from them.

Just as in the case with my cousin Jim’s TR4, my frame has coilovers and clearance is not an issue.  Finally, bowtie6 does not use any form of wheel spacers.

What about size for the next set of tires?  Well, I have been struggling with this a bit.  The staggered 205/55 front and 215/55 rear gives the car just a tad of rake that I really like.  The downside is not being able to rotate tires.  So the question is whether to go for the staggered look or just buying four 205/55 16′s for all corners.  Stay tuned, I’ll have an update when I make up my mind!  ;)

Final Thoughts and Considerations

Please keep in mind as you study these pictures that we have custom made frames under out cars.  The frames and suspensions were specifically designed in order to give the necessary room for clearance between the wheels and all other components without having to resort to dreadful spacers.

As a side note though, I did use the staggered setup along with the Panasports on my TR6′s factory original frame before it broke.  In the front though, the upper “A” arms had to be trimmed just a tad in order to clear the wheel weights on the front wheels.  The rears though, fit perfectly with the stock TR6 trailing arms.  So a 16 x 7″ Panasport will fit on a TR6.

Another trick that is not easily visible is the way both TR4 and TR6 body shells are mounted on our frames.  You see, we made spacers in order to adequately raise the body just a small amount in order to make things line up properly.  This required a little “thinking outside the box” but the end result turned out very nice indeed.

And there you have it.  If you have any questions, suggestions or comments they are all welcome.  Just fill in a comment below and I will be happy to elaborate some more.

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2012 Euro Auto Festival – bowtie6 will be there!!!

Howdy folks!

Good news tonight…  Finally!!!

  • Performance issues are now a thing of the past.  I’ve had this blog moved to a load balanced hosting plan and we should be noticing some much improved load times.
  • If you have any issues please let me know:  info@bowtie6.com – and I’ll see what I can do to fix it.

The next thing I wanted to let you all know is that bowtie6 will be at the prestigious 2012 Euro Auto Festival at BMW’s Greer, South Carolina assembly plant this weekend.  You can read more about the festival by clicking here. The last time I registered to show my car was there was in 2009.  Incidentally, bowtie6 won First Prize in the TR6 class that year.  :)

If you have never attended the Euro Auto Festival, you need to make a point to be there.  There are many, many cool cars in attendance and the venue is amazing.  The BMW Zentrum is there and you will see a huge collection of amazing cars.  Among them, my friend Michael’s highly tricked out Volvo.

Michael has turned his Volvo into a real powerhouse and basically created a wolf in sheep’s clothing.  It has a highly tweaked Ford Mustang engine in it (oh dear, I said the “F” word!!) and many, many cool enhancements.  I promise I’ll have a full article (or two) here soon with more details about Michael’s ride.

This year’s “marque” is MercedesBenz.  According to the AccuWeather this weekend should be sunny and very nice.  So I plan to have the digital Canon with me and I’ll try to take as many pictures as I can. Stay tuned and I’ll try to put together a nice gallery of shots.

If you happen to be there please come by the Triumph section and say hello.   bowtie6 is downstairs in the garage right now, all gussied up and ready to go.  I have actually taken the hard top off and installed my soft top back on.  This top was custom made in the UK for me several years ago and it is a little “different” from the standard soft tops:  it lacks the side windows.  Click on the “About” menu option to see what it looks like.  At any rate, I hope to see you there!

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Fuel Regulator Fittings

The Ecotec engine uses a similar fuel delivery system as fitted in the LSx engines in that the fuel rail is “returnless”.  This means there is only one line feeding the fuel rail on the engine.  In order to make this work, a special fuel regulator with built in filter has to be plumbed not far from the fuel pump.  There are several fuel regulator fittings available and in today’s installment I’ll document my experiences.

In an earlier post, I wrote about bowtie6‘s Ecotec fuel system (click here) where I described the separate staging tank holding the fuel pump.  About two weeks ago, I noticed the insulation post around the fuel pump’s B+ terminal my cousin Jim had fabricated had deteriorated due to coming in contact with fuel from the tank.  In order to solve this problem, I had to take the small tank out which required disconnecting the fuel regulator fittings.  After putting all the bits back together I found the fuel regulator fittings were not exactly “clicking” correctly.  They held in place but I was not pleased with the fitment so I safety wired them in place as shown in the following picture:

We can all agree this is not exactly the most elegant way to do things.  So why the safety wire?  Well, turns out on the little plastic tabs that “click” the blue fitting in place are not exactly the best design in the world.  Sure, car manufacturers use them all the time and they work flawlessly.  However these are aftermarket units made by Russell (a division of Edelbrock) and they are not exactly OEM quality.  I found out this by experience and by reading the latest issue of Car & Craft’s engine swaps magazine.  So where is the problem?

The following photo shows one of the two pump-side lines going into the regulator.  I’ve removed the fitting so you can see the small ring around the metal tube (more on that later)…

The next photo shows the fitting and the small plastic clip that holds all this together:

The small white plastic clip is very cleverly made.  There are two sets of barbs on it.  The inner pair locks in place around the ring on the metal tube from the picture above this one.  That keeps the plastic piece from sliding out.  Then the barbs also lock in place on a shoulder inside the fitting.  However in order to make this work, the plastic spring loaded affair must be crisp and not in the least deformed.  Taking this apart deforms the plastic clip and this prevents a positive lock.

The last two pictures show the white plastic affair locked in place.  As mentioned previously, this assembly is then pushed on the tube in the regulator and if all goes well the two barbs on the plastic clip snap on the ring molded on the tube.  All this looks good on paper, but I noticed the plastic “clip” had lost some of its “spring” and this all did not really lock in place so well.  The kicker is that these fuel lines are holding 50+ psi pump pressure and if they decide to part ways, well… you end up having a real bad day.

Remember that magazine I mentioned above?  There was a very good article in that issue about fuel systems and they cautioned on using these fittings.  And, they also suggested an alternative.  Unfortunately, the alternative is also made by Russell.

I did call the Russell tech line and talked to a rather abrasive dude on the phone about my experiences.  Right of the bat, he was not very interested in my findings nor on making things right.  Basically he told me to buy the new fittings and took no ownership to the fact this was a bit on the “unsafe” side.  I even told him about the article in the magazine, but he dismissed that too.  At any rate why argue with someone unwilling to stand by their product so I ordered new fittings.  While not exactly “cheap” (they are about $16 each) quite frankly I rather spend the money and have the peace of mind this is not going to come apart and sling fuel all over the place.

The solution is to use these fittings:

These fittings have a much safer design.  Instead of the spring-loaded plastic affair, they have a threaded cap that holds the fitting in place.  The threaded cap has a “U” shape that slides over the tube on the regulator and when tightened grips the ring (look at the very first picture on this post) keeping everything securely in place.  With this together, there is no slippage and no danger of this ever coming apart.

This is what it looks like all completed:

As you can see, these fuel regulator fittings are much nicer and better designed.  If you are considering this for an engine swap, don’t waste your money on the fittings with the plastic spring-loaded clip.  Get the ones with the threaded cap.  You will be much happier and most important of all, safer.

 

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How Much Does a TR6 Weigh?

I’ll ask again, how much does a TR6 weigh?

This has been a question in my mind ever since we fitted the new frame and engine to bowtie6.  Well today I finally was able to find out.  The result was a great surprise.

Along with a full tank of fuel and the hard top in place we took our first set of numbers.  The following pictures show front and rear total weights.

Here is the total:

Not too bad – 2,222 lbs and a 48.2% front / 51.7% rear bias.

We were curious about the weight of the factory hard top.  Well I can conclusively state the Triumph factory hard top weighs in at about 65 lbs.  Granted mine has had a few changes done.  I have added a layer of Dynamat Extreme inside however, I removed all the chrome trim.  So at the end of the day, I guess this would be about equal.

Here is the total without the hard top in place:

With the hard top removed, total weight is 2,158 lbs and a 49.3% front / 50.6% rear.

Next thing I need to do is put bowtie6 on a dyno and measure just how much horsepower we are putting down on the pavement.  In stock form, the 2.4 Ecotec in a Solstice/Sky produces 177 hp.  That is using the restrictive factory exhaust and the factory tune which is optimized for economy.  In bowtie6‘s case, we have tuned the PCM to produce power at the expense of economy (duh!), so we are far above from the stock value.  How much?  That we need to find out.

Regardless, this is all quite impressive.  It would have been nice to be closer to 2000lbs but  2,158 is not shabby at all.  I guess I should not have used all that Dynamat!  :)

Oh and I found a prior post I had made regarding how much my cousin Jim’s TR4 weighs – to read that post CLICK HERE.

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Changing Oil

Last Sunday (03/04/12) was “oil change” day.  I wanted to get the “factory fill” oil from the engine out.  Remember, this engine had only 8 miles!

Changing oil on an Ecotec is a breeze.  These engines have a cartridge type filter, inside a housing in the block with a screw-on cap.  The “nut” on the cap is right large but you can get a special socket to fit the nut.  Since the oil drains back into the block, when you take the cap off there is no oil spill.  This is great.

Honest, it takes longer to jack the car up and let it rest on jackstands than it takes to change oil.  I have been buying GM filters but they are kinda crappy – I rather buy a premium filter.  They are a little more expensive, but IMHO they are worth it.  As I do with all my other cars, the only oil used is Mobil1 synthetic.  The stuff is not cheap, but this has worked flawlessly for me through the years.  This is the way to go.

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Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

2400 miles driven and one of the two rear axle wheel bearings has failed on a sub 2500lb car.  Sad shape of affairs this is indeed.

Fist off, the wheel bearing in question has the SKF name all over it; made in of all places, China.  I have a problem with offshoring and a bigger problem when the offshored goods are defective.  QA was definitely not in the picture when this bearing was made.  And no, this is not the first one to fail.  My cousin Jim Thompson’s TR4 had the exact same thing happen on an identical rear axle as used on bowtie6.

So what is all this fuss about?  Let me show you.  After lifting the rear of my TR6 up in the air, we were able to determine the driver’s side axle bearing was at fault.  I took the caliper off, then the rotor and the retainer plate off the rear housing.  A couple of strikes with a deadblow hammer and the axle was out.  This is what it looks like:

The picture above shows the bearing and on top of it the retaining ring.  In order to minimize damage to the axle, the bearing is cut as follows:

And once the outside race “pops” (it is under tension and cutting the outside race eventually makes a muffled “pop”), we get a chance to see inside.  This is where things get very interesting:

In the picture above we have the outside race cut showing the ball bearing retainer.  It is what lies below the ball bearings what is of interest!

Here we start to see the root cause of the problem.  The inside race should be slick, polished and accurately ground.  Look at the photo above: the lower half is indeed properly hardened and finished.  However, see the top half?  It looks very rough indeed.  That is where the racket was coming from.  Another couple of pictures:

And…

Further inspection revealed the outside race was in good shape.  No case-hardening issues there.  However, the inner race was very poorly made – somehow the case-hardening process was not properly applied and the surface of the inside race pitted severely after only 2400 miles.  This cannot be blamed on poor lubrication because these are sealed bearings.

A new bearing has been sourced – unfortunately it is SKF.  I just hope I’m not here in another 2500 miles talking about another bad apple.  Here is a photo of the new bearing being pressed in:

Once I got the axle back in the housing and bolted it all back together we were set to go.  I put about 50 miles this afternoon and all is good.  I just keep my fingers crossed the new bearing lasts a little longer.

 

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